Berlin, an interview, and lots of reading
This issue is a travel buffet (and long!)
Hello readers!
I arrived home from Berlin late on Friday night the 14th and felt kind of sick with a mild cold so I pretty much unpacked just enough toiletries to shower off a days worth of travel grunge and left my suitcase on my living room floor (breaking all of my unpacking rules), watered my plants, and went to bed. I had a wonderful trip and I’ve been pushing my bedtime back a little later every night to readjust but on Sunday I really wanted to get in bed at 7:15 and made myself wait until 8 and then read until my eyes could not stay open, so about 8:20.
I do have a favor to ask, I have a short reader survey about how you do your travel research and I would be so happy if you completed it.
Links
This article is apparently a little older and was revised in 2024 but I thoroughly enjoyed the explanation of what an airport Station Manager does and how critical their job is. I would not want it and I am an organized person who like details and planning. It honestly sounds as stressful as being in air traffic control.
Books to read to inspire travel. You know I’ll be adding some of these to my list!
They were coming in as we were going out - we had no idea until we arrived. I’m glad we departed Berlin when we did.
This happened while my sister and I were in Berlin too and the area around the Brandenburg Gate was on lockdown that day after we’d walked under and around it the day before.
Finally, kind of a feel-good story. Incarcerated New Yorkers staged a Broadway show in prison. I know this is unrelated to travel but I saw it and wanted to share since I am a big fan of the arts of any kind.
Berlin: A short list of what we did, saw, and ate
If you have a short amount of time in Berlin like we did, I recommend spending some time eating local food and learning why Berlin was so important in both WWII and how it functioned before German reunification in 1990.
Tränenpalast - The Palace of Tears, a museum that was a former train station where people could travel from East Berlin to West Berlin and thus out of the GDR. This museum was small but mighty. There was a lot of information packed into it and I learned a lot about families who dropped everything when the Berlin wall went up and left their homes and lives behind to escape to West Germany not knowing how long they’d leave their lives behind. I think this is a must. I want to note that here and everywhere, there were a lot of school groups of all ages. I am glad that the Berlin school-age children are learning about this
Sandeman’s Walking Tour - the Berlin City Tour and the Communism Tour. I like free tours based on tips because I have never been disappointed by the personality of the tour guide, the information and stories they tell the groups, and the sites I’ve seen on them. The two guides we had in Berlin were both from Chile and it was fun to speak a little bit of Spanish with one. They both had lived in Berlin for 5+ years and
Topography of Terror - This museum is appropriately named. Of course I learned about the Holocaust in school but nothing prepared me for the bluntness of seeing the atrocities spelled out in English translated from German and the photos. This museum was heavy but also a must visit. Don’t go the same day as the Tranenpalast, (we didn’t) space out the heavy places.
Berlin Wall Memorial - this was part of one of our walking tours. I recommend a walk through it and reading the placards but a guided tour through it might be better than going on one’s own.
Eastside Gallery - this is a section of the Berlin wall that is still up and filled with unique murals. It is along the Spree River and a nice walk.
Simon Dach Stasse - A street and its surrounding areas popular with locals for dining, bars, and shops. Our walking guide told us to go here and expect to pay cash as many of the bars and restaurants there were still cash only. I am sorry that I cannot remember if we paid cash at Primitive bar for our one cocktail before a concert but our bartender was polite, kind, and made a yummy rhubarb spritz for me. That Trip Advisor link does state that they’re cash only so I guess I answered my own question. We also visited the Shakespeare English bookstore and cafe near here and I could have spent hours there.
In Potsdam - Sanssouci Palace and Neue Palais, Dutch Quarter. We went to Potsdam on our last day and it was between that and Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Both my sister and I have been to a camp before and after the Tranenpalast, tours, and other museums, we wanted something a bit lighter.
It was about 30 minutes on the speediest train from the main Berlin train station (called Haupbahnhof - central station). We took a short-ish bus ride from just outside our hotel to Hauptbahhof and it was the final stop on the bus, easy peasy. Potsdam was the summer escape for kings and royalty of Germany, I kept thinking of it like it was the Versailles of Germany.
The town itself is well-kept and has a lot of restaurants, cafes, and shops. The Dutch quarter was particularly pretty and I wish we could have stayed longer! The palaces were worth the visit. We used the discount provided by that Berlin city pass to buy a ticket to visit two palaces (that’s at my limit for one day) and used the audio guides in both. You don’t necessarily need an audio guide at Sanssouci because there are placards to read. However, in the Neue Palais, you have a guide who walks you from room to room and does the tour in German so unless you understand that, you’ll want the English audioguide. The information was interesting and the palaces beautiful. The weather was a bit warmer in Potsdam and the gardens surrounding the palaces were worth the walk as well. One annoying little bit of info is that the toilets there are 50 cents or 1 euro to use each time, come prepared with coins!
Eat (where and what)
Prater Beer Garden, doner kebabs, Bavaria Berlin Upon arrival and check in at our ship, we headed to Prater Beer Garden for a beer and some food. The garden was in a really nice setting under the trees with happy birds chirping and fairy lights hanging above all of the picnic tables. I would go back to this place! We each had a beer and shared a pretzel, then I had a bockwurst, still don’t know what that was but it was tasty, with a side of potato salad.
Doner kebabs, if you read that link, are a creation of Turkish immigrants in Berlin. They are delicious. We needed a quick dinner after we had a drink at Primitive and before we headed to a concert and this was a delicious option.
Doner kebab (UK: /ˈdɒnər kɪˈbæb/, US: /ˈdoʊnər kɪˈbɑːb/; Turkish: döner or döner kebap, pronounced [dœˈnæɾ keˈbɑp]), also spelled as döner kebab, is a dish of Turkish origin made of meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie.[1] Seasoned meat stacked in the shape of an inverted cone is turned slowly on the rotisserie, next to a vertical cooking element. The operator uses a knife to slice thin shavings from the outer layer of the meat as it cooks. The vertical rotisserie was invented in the 19th-century Ottoman Empire, and dishes such as the Arab shawarma, Greek gyros, Canadian donair, and Mexican al pastor are derived from this.[2][3][4]
The modern sandwich variant of döner kebab originated and was popularized in 1970s West Berlin by Turkish immigrants.[5][6][7] This was recognized by the Berlin-based Association of Turkish Doner Manufacturers in Europe in 2011.
Bavaria Berlin was near the Brandenburg Gate and a good lunch option on the day we had a 2 pm walking tour that started nearby. It was a bit touristy however the food was good and the prices good. I ordered a pork loaf, not expecting it to be a delicious sandwich with some vegetables on the plate, good bread, and a fried egg on top of the sandwich. We also had a great dark beer there with our lunch.
The Hat Bar- We went here after dinner one night for their jam session and it was great! A good atmosphere, good mocktail selection and of course regular drinks, and friendly staff. Smoking is allowed inside.
Where we stayed: Ship Hotel and The Holiday Inn Express Berlin City Centre. The ship hotel was economical but not cheap. It was small, tidy, and unique. The staff were super friendly and nice. Would I stay there for a week now? Probably not, it was quite tiny and after a shower in the small bathroom the whole room was humid even when it was chilly outside. However, it served its purpose since it was a 5 minute walk from the venue where we saw The Smile. It was also close to the Warschauer Strasse S-bahn and tram, so a great location for getting around and we were a 20 minute walk from Simon Dach Strasse. After we moved to the Holiday Inn near Potsdamer Platz, we were a very short walk to the Anhalter Bahnhof S-bahn/U-bahn station and we could get anywhere and everywhere from there.
How we got around: Upon arrival at Berlin airport, we purchased a 5-day unlimited Welcome Pass that also gave us discounts at several tourist destinations like the palaces in Potsdam. We paid somewhere between 50-60 euros for this pass and it was well worth it. How does it work? You do get a paper ticket (take care with it) that you validate on the platform or the station before you take your first ride. Those validation machines are easy to find and use. Then you’re off! Rides are on the honour system but there are random checks and I did observe a teenage boy getting a ticket and a lecture when we were riding back from Potsdam. This ticket allowed us to ride the: S-bahn, U-bahn, Regional trains, bus, and the tram. Totally worth it. We rode all of them and they were all clean, easy to use, on time, and frequent. All of those are what I kind of expect in Germany and I was not disappointed. If you’re a public transport nerd like I am, feel free to read about the differences in all of those options I mentioned here.
Different ways to travel, Trusted Housesitters
Have you ever heard of Trusted Housesitters? My friend Carla, who lives in Chicago, is a member of this website and has travelled around the US and internationally. How does it work? You pay an annual fee and you can look for homestays where you’ll be taking care of other member’s animals and homes while they’re away. Your stay in their home is free because you’re essentially paying by taking care of their furry family members.
I do like this business model a lot but have yet to join - this might be the year! I can see it being beneficial for families who need a little more room and space and maybe more comfort while away, plus the company of a pet! It would also be great for solo travellers since it is always nice to have a pet to connect with when you’re travelling alone.
Carla was kind enough to have a Zoom chat with me about her experiences with Trusted Housesitters. She is a copy editor and you might recognize some or many of the books she has worked on if you visit her website, which I’ve linked above.
How did Carla learn about Trusted Housesitters and what made her want to join? She learned about it from a friend who she used to run with. She joined in the middle of 2019 and took a hiatus around 2020-2021, for obvious reasons. But, she did go to Australia and Canada with it before the pandemic!
What is the sign up process like and how long does it take to be approved and get started? She signed up and it is not a long process to join. You pay the annual membership fee of 150 USD and have someone write an external reference for you. She recommends doing a local stay first to get a good review as it is probably difficult to land any type of booking with no reviews.
What are some highlights of your TH gigs? Last year she stayed in Asheville for 2 weeks - one night in a hotel would definitely cost more than that. That was also her favorite dog to watch so far, a cockapoo of around 20 lbs.
Where are some other destinations you’ve been to with TH? Adelaide (Australia), Toronto, Asheville, New York, Minneapolis/St. Paul, Milwaukee, and this past weekend Duluth, Minnesota for the Grandma’s Marathon.
The most animals she’s watched at once has been 2 cats with Trusted Housesitters and she said 1-2 animals is enough at one time (I totally agree). She’s been fortunate to mostly stay with mid-sized or smaller dogs. (Again, I agree, I’ve watched several big dogs and sometimes managing bigger ones when you’re not the owner is a challenge).
Carla’s wishlist for places to stay with Trusted Housesitters: Copenhagen, Argentina, Montreal, and she wishes there were more options in the US where she does not need a car. I am publishing this and putting it out into the universe so that Carla can get her wishes granted.
What is the booking process like? Carla decides or knows where she wants to go and looks for a place. Some places (like New York City) can be competitive. When you apply, you can see how many other sitters have applied and she’ll only apply when the number is 0-3 to increase her chances of getting the booking. The pet owners make the final decision, of course, so some flexibility is necessary but can pay off.
What about local stays? Occasionally Carla has people reach out to her from the city of Chicago or from the Chicago suburbs when they need someone last minute or have not been able to find someone. She is less likely to take a local one since she primarily uses it as a way to decrease vacation expenses and get away. However, this is an option for others who might need a place to stay short term, for various reasons. Regardless of whether you’re doing a local stay or at some far-flung destination, you are still given a review by the owner when you do a local stay so it can help your overall review score for all bookings.
How much interaction do you have with the pet-owners? Sometimes people have picked her up at the airport but sometimes she never sees them in person. It really just depends on the schedule of the pet owner and the situation. Every booking is different.
Carla’s recommendations for using TH: She recommends using Trusted Housesitters as a solo traveller but some people have couple or family profiles and some pet owners request single sitters, couple sitters, or say no children. Carla had her partner come along for one gig and she booked the gig then asked for permission for him to come. The owner did think about it for a few days and allowed it. So know that you might need a profile that designates you’ll be a couple or a family if you do plan on using it that way.
One of Carla’s recent house/petsit was for a friendly cat in a cozy house in the Twin Cities in Minnesota so she could run a half-marathon. And this past weekend she was in Duluth, Minnesota for Grandma’s Marathon to cheer and support friends and her partner and watch a cute dog named Ozzie - who turned out to be a fantastic marathon spectator.
If you’re interested in trying Trusted Housesitters, Carla’s discount code is linked here. It sounds like a particularly good option for races!
I have a friend who is/has been a Trusted Housesitters host and I hope to interview her next to get the other perspective of this arrangement. Stay tuned and I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse into another way to book travel accommodations.
Consuming
Books: On my flights I read The Assassin’s Blade (The Throne of Glass prequels), Wild Beautiful, and Free, and I finished listening to Unreasonable Hospitality right before I left.
Assassin’s Blade was interesting enough that I want to continue the story so I added the Throne of Glass books to my “want to read” list on Good Reads. It was a speedy, energetic read about a female assassin in a made up kingdom/world. It reads like YA but I was entertained.
Wild, Beautiful, and Free was about a girl named Jeanette born on a Louisiana plantation. Her father is the owner of the plantation and her mother was a slave. But, her father insisted that she was raised as his own child in the house with the his other daughter and his wife. His wife never liked this and made Jeannette’s childhood uncomfortable and unnecessarily difficult. I found myself hating the mother, she was very mean. When Jeannette’s father dies in the story, her life takes a turn and the adventure starts from there. This book reminded me a bit of Washington Black, which I also really liked.
Unreasonable Hospitality was nonfiction and about providing impeccable customer service, in the most basic terms. It was much more than that. There were a lot of good lessons in there and some anecdotes that I rolled my eyes at. I worked in the service industry and I think some of the fine dining perks can be over the top. Overall, I am glad I listened to it and had some takeaways for work and for my own individual pursuits/businesses.
Butter Honey Pig Bread was a generational story about a mother and her twin daughters from Lagos, Nigeria. However, the story took place in Canada and the UK as well. It really had a lot of ups and downs and was quite sad at times but enjoyable. It was definitely a character-driven story and I’m realizing now that I don’t read a lot of those.
Watching: I watched a little bit of the first season of the documentary 100 Foot Wave on the way to the UK where I was surfing. Also, for transparency, please know that I am not a good surfer. I am learning and I have fun and get a little better every time. I am humbled by how hard it is but so rewarding when things click. But, 100 foot wave is a documentary about big wave surfer Garrett McNamara’s first season in Nazaré, Portugal, known for MASSIVE waves at its headland. Whether you’re not into surfing at all or are and have no desire to ever surf huge waves like me, (little waves, all the time please) this documentary is probably still interesting. It is chopped up into episodes and explains tow surfing, which is how the surfers get out to the big waves in the first place and there is incredible footage of them riding huge walls of water that look so scary. I would never. But, I recommend watching it!
Since I’ve returned home. I also started watching this, which is subtitled Evil on Trial. I’m not going to type the other words and get myself somehow canceled or flagged by keyword. Before I left for Berlin, Netflix kept trying to suggest it and I not taking the bait. It seemed heavy and I was not in the right mindset for it. Since I spent time at the Tränenpalast and the Topography of Terror museums though, I wanted to continue the learning. Enjoyment is not the word to describe why I continue to watch this but I finished it and I am glad that I did.
Listening
One of the things my sister and I did in Berlin was go to a concert for The Smile. Who? Everyone asks. The Smile is an English band consisting of Radiohead’s Thom Yorke and Jonny Greenwood, and Tom Skinner, drummer from the band Sons of Kemet. This music is not a stand up and dance or sing type of show but we both had a really good time. I’ve seen Radiohead once in concert and would like to again if they ever come out of their hiatus. However, since returning home I have been listening to a lot of The Smile’s two albums and revisiting Radiohead’s albums Kid A and Amnesiac. Those last two were not my favourites when they came out in 2000 and 2001, but now I really like them just as much as all of the others.
Wow if you read this whole thing, great job. It was a labor of love to include all of this and thank you for being here. I love reviewing places I’ve been and writing travel diaries so if you like this, let me know!
-Sonya
I’m very interest in the TH so thank you for mentioning it!!
What a fun trip! I would love to visit Berlin sometime. Thanks for the TH recommendation, that's quite interesting. 🩷